Bella Tuscany

Ahhhhh! Bella! Bella!  I love Tuscany!  I mean I really really love Tuscany! It's the perfect combination of beauty and serenity.  Alas, we started the trip in the pouring rain thinking that it may been a mistake (as if a trip to Tuscany could be a mistake...) But as we continued to drive north the clouds cleared and it turned into a beautiful Italian fall day.  First we reached Sienna, the largest city in the Tuscan region - a medieval walled town on top of a large hill.  The city itself looked beautiful and there may have been sights to tour but we had scheduled a wine tour in the afternoon.  So we grabbed a quick bite, caught a glimpse of the Duomo,  and headed out to a vineyard called Dievole.

Dievloe (check out their website for more info: http://www.dievole.it/en/home/home.aspx) is a small resort on the edge of a rolling tuscan hill with villas, a winery, a restaurant, pools, gardens etc.  Up on arrival we were  handed a glass of wine and told to explore the area.  Like typical Americans we asked to check-in to our room first.  The lady looked at us like we were crazy, and insisted we enjoy a glass of wine (on the house) and relax on the terrace prior to checking in.  A lesson in the italian schedule: piano, piano.  They had such pretty little rose gardens and panoramic views; it was like something out of a movie.  We were trying to figure out the difference between Tuscany and Napa Valley.  It occurred to us that Napa was a bit more commercialized, and the vineyards were packed together.  Tuscany is just so much older, with more character, and a slower pace.  Next, we went on a wine tour through the cellars and vineyards.  Each stop we received a generous pour of a different wine, some cheese, and homemade prosciutto (dry cured ham).  On our tour was an ENGLISH SPEAKING 3 year old boy! Can you believe it?  So they ran around together and we, well, . . . enjoyed ourselves.  Dinner at the restaurant was delicious and entertaining.  Half way through the meal a cat jumped through the window that was beside our table.  Well that was no big deal until a dog that had been hiding under another table saw it and all heck broke lose!  Kind of funny, and well, would only happen in Italy :)  I think one of my favorite memories is opening up my shutters (so italian) the next morning and seeing the mist settled over the vineyards through the rolling hills.  Like nothing I had ever seen before.  

The next day we went to Lucca.  Of all the towns we've been to thus far in Italy, this was our favorite.  Lucca is medieval town completely walled.  The walls are so wide that on top there are trees, parks and paths that you can walk/ride bikes all the way around!  There are no cars allowed inside the city so we rented bikes and rode around all day.  Reid thought this was a blast and would squeal “go faster! go faster!”  For dinner we found a trattoria that served fabulous food.  Northern Italy is known for their risotto dishes. After dinner, we knew why. 

The last morning we woke up in Lucca and drove 20 miles south to Pisa.  Guess what we saw there?  Pisa looked like a typical medieval town. It was walled, had it's main cathedral and honestly if one of the towers didn't lean I am not sure it would be famous for anything else.  But of course we had to go, and of course we had to take the token picture of us "holding up" the tower.  We had lunch at a small trattoria and waited out a rain storm and then headed home.  

What a wonderful "taste" of Italy.  I have a feeling that this trip to Tuscany was the first of many.  

1 month anniversary in Rome: pony rides and date nights

When we first stepped off the plane I didn't think we'd last a week, let alone a month (for reference see my earlier post about the cat carrier and exploding stove). But living in Italy is like her wonderful rosso vino - it gets better with age. In one month we accomplished much - all from God's good grace. We were able to get: permanent cell phones, Internet, Italian living documentation, a motorino, a car, and our UAB (unaccompanied baggage). The car was an answer to prayer, and will be the subject of its own entry. We took day trips to Naples, Pompeii, Capri, Sorrento, and Orvieto. The month was slammed pack.

We're now starting to get comfortable (even without our real bed or couch - they are still over the Atlantic). The other day after church we walked from Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina (the piazza where are church is) all around the heart of eternal Rome. We actually knew where we were most of the time! To the north was Piazza del Popolo, to the east was the Spanish Steps, and to the south was Piazza Venezia (more commonly known to locals as the wedding cake). We walked down around the Colosseum and took a cab home. If you don't know any of the locations I just mentioned - watch "Angels and Demons" - you'll learn. The day was great not because we did any one thing amazing; it was great because we didn't. After a wonderful church service with good christian fellowship we had a leisurely stroll around the city. Nothing earth-shattering, but it proved to us we could enjoy the city without being tourists.

A concern we had coming over here is what Kate and Reid would do while I'm at work. What a wonderful blessing that we've found great parks close by. Each one has its own niche. Villa Borghese is large and half way between our house and the historic section of the city. It's got a zoo for Reid, quaint duck pond where you can rent romantic row boats, and its littered with ancient statues and fountains. Villa Adda is great for running (although I haven't had the initiative to go running yet), and has a large kid-friendly playground for Reid. There's another park on a hill that has a great view of the city, with a cafe' right next to a playground. Finally there's Villa Gloria which has the Pony Cafe'. It's called the Pony Cafe' because it's a little cafe' right next to a corral that gives pony rides. It also has a playground right next to it. A favorite Saturday morning activity has become Kate and Andy enjoying a cappuccino in the cafe' while Reid plays and goes on a pony ride. Pretty convenient...

To celebrate our official one-month, Kate and I had our first date night (thanks to a wonderful babysitter we found). Italy's a romantic city - we did it right. First we drove around the historic section of the city in our motorino. It was Kate's maiden voyage, and she held on tight. We drove through the roman walls, past the trevi fountain, and around the Colosseum. Next we zipped over the river (I can use the word 'zipped' because we were on the motorino), passed the Angel Castle (again you have to see 'Angels and Demons'), and parked in Trastevere (a young, crowed part of town with more locals than tourists). The night was fantastic and the weather was perfect. We had dinner in this open-air, back-alley restaurant that reminded us of lady and the tramp. Musicians stopped by and played for tips. We topped off the with a gellato and a daring ride back home on the motorino.

Looking back on this month, I can see how the days may be long but the years fly by. I have no doubt that I'll be writing an entry three years from now asking myself "where did the time go?" There's just so much I want to see, and so much I want to do. As my friend Ryan said - "you can eat out every night and still not go to every good restaurant" (note that they don't have kids yet, so they can afford it). But it's true, there's a lot to see, do, and eat. But there's something to say about just enjoying life and not always being on an emotional high; finding that middle ground. The challenge will be finding contentment during the middle ground. Every day can't be date night for the parents or pony rides for Reid. When the pony rides and date nights do come, however, it's best to be thankful and enjoy them.

Orvieto

So last Saturday Andy, Reid and I packed into our friends' Nissian Micra (yes the name indicates the size) and headed north to a small city called Orvieto.  As we ascended to the medieval walled city I thought  "this looks just like Italy!"  We first toured the Duomo Cathedral which has intricate carvings portraying Genesis, Jesse's Tree, Scenes from the New Testament and the Last Judgement.  As I stood there like the typical tourist staring straight up with my mouth wide open it occurred to me that this was probably the intention. (Get people to stop what they are doing and look to heaven for a minute!)  

  Next we toured St Patrick's Well.  So cool!  There are 2 spiral staircases, lit by 72 windows that ascend and desc

end without ever touching.  And the acoustics are crazy!  Andy and Ryan could be 3 spirals away (if that makes any sense) and could hear what Kate and I whispered.

 

The last and probably my favorite part was underground Orvieto.  So apparently there are over 15oo caves that run under the city and connect with the houses above.  The Etruscans (which pre-dated even the ancient Romans...) first dug caves in search of water.  Later the city was razed by the Romans.  In the middle ages its popula

tion again grew because of its easily defensible position.  The caves were again used, but this time for different purposes.  People would live above ground and work below to avoid taxes.  They also raised pigeons in these caves which was a main source of protein for the people.  That night we ate dinner in one of the caves that they converted into a restaurant. 

 

And Reid. . . an angel all day!  He toured all around with us and did not complain once.  But really how could he . . .eating gelato three times that day kept him very happy :)  

The Best Day in Rome

So today was officially one of the best days we have had in Rome so far.  Not because we got to travel to some exotic island or witness the historic artistic monuments of Rome but because we finally are making this place more like home.  A home that we can comfortably live in over the next 3 years.  This morning "Fastweb" came and on a personal note I (kate) was able to speak enough Italian to not only confirm the appointment but get the technician water, show him where the bathroom was and help him connect us to the world wide web :)  

     Later that day Reid and I went to a play group at the embassy and yes on thursday (Reid's favorite day) it is gnocchi day at the embassy cafe.  (very yummy)  

      Then we headed home (walking) and missed the thunderstorm by literally 2 raindrops and met a man who showed us the car in which we are now buying (yeah!!!!!!).  The walking has been excellent for my figure but I am willing to sacrifice a few pounds for convenience. 

In the evening we headed over to Villa Taverna (the Ambassador's residence) for dinner.  It was one of the most amazing houses I have seen.  The gardens were fabulous, candle light, wine,  American hamburgers, (a nice touch) what a good evening!

Then to top things off I drove (yes me Kate with my pink helmet) the motorino around the neighborhood for the first time by my self.  I had a some near misses with cars (ok so they were parked) but all went well.  Hmmm. . . well .. . all went well until I got the keys stuck in the trunk lock and could not get the kick stand down.  But pretty much a success... right? 

I think I finally am appreciating Rome for what it is, and not what I thought it should be.  Piano, Piano!  

My little door man!

In our apartment we have a portiere/doorman.  He is very friendly and has helped us with everything from lending us ladders and random tools to helping me park a friend's car in our very small parking space.  But I have also been blessed with a personal doorman.  He insists on holding every door for me no matter how heavy and loves to open and close doors to our elevator.  Our elevator is something from the 1920's it is charming rustic and very small.  It has three doors that must be manually opened and closed every time you get in and out of it.  And my little doorman INSISTS on doing all three every time "All by myself".  He works very hard to close them just right and his payment? . . . . "Honey Yut Cheerios." 

Random Italy

So I am at the commissary in Naples meandering down the sporting goods aisle when I look down through a glass floor and see an ancient Roman well below me. . oh and some random pottery.  Apparently the base was built on an important Roman crossroad  and this is how they decided to preserve the relics.  But this is Italy everywhere you look there is random statues, fountains (which still bring water down the same aqueduct system they have been using for centuries) and amazing pieces of history.  It is still hard for me to grasp how old this place is! . . . until I try to use the internet :) 

The fast lane.

OK, so just a little quirk of Italian highway ingenuity I have to share.  The other day Kate and I were driving on the A-1: Italy’s version of I-95.  We came upon some road construction.  It went from three lanes to two - nothing out of the ordinary.  But instead of keeping the lanes together, they closed the middle lane and split the lanes right and left.  Ok, still nothing out of the ordinary.  Kate and I merged left.  Most cars merged right...  Up ahead the fast lane of oncoming traffic was closed also, and the cars we were following were going over a make-shift ramp, over the median, and into the closest lane of oncoming traffic.  They had closed the ‘fast lane’ of oncoming traffic, and allowed cars flowing in the opposite direction to ride past the construction.  No barriers.  No cones.  Just the Anderson family traveling at 120 km/hr in one direction and other cars traveling at 120 km/hr in the other.  If we went slower that 120 the car behind us would flash its lights.  I guess they still considered it the ‘fast lane’.